TARAMA SALAD (Taramosalata)

I was young and just learning the ropes around the kitchen. A holiday was approaching, and we were to have a big gathering for dinner. I wanted to have something special to accompany our meal, so I decided to make a taramosalata, my first effort at making the famous Greek appetizer. This was many, many years ago, when Greek cookbooks were difficult to find at the bookstore, and when the Internet had not yet been born. Can you imagine such a time? Anyway, I knew that Craig Claiborne had a recipe for tarama in his tome "The New York Times Cook Book." I followed his recipe, and the results were wonderful. To my mind, this was and is the quintessential recipe for tarama! It's tangy, the olive oil gives it a great aroma, and the taste is as close to perfect as you can get. It reminds me of the tarama we order during Greek summer vacations when we descend ravenous at seaside Greek tavernas after a day of sun and sand and swimming. Here is Craig's recipe, with only one alteration by me: I added extra lemon juice.

Ingredients:

• 3 tablespoons bottled tarama (carp roe)
• 4 tablespoons lemon juice
• 3 slices white bread, crusts trimmed
• ¾ cup extra virgin olive oil 
• ¼ of an onion, finely grated
• 2 scallions, mostly white parts, well chopped 

Directions:

• Place the tarama and the lemon juice in the food processor and blend until thoroughly mixed.
• Meanwhile, soak the bread slices in cold water, not for very long, about half a minute. Remove them and squeeze the bread thoroughly.
• Add the bread to the mixture. Mix until thoroughly blended.
• Add the oil gradually. Keep blending until all the oil is incorporated and the mixture has the consistency of thick mayonnaise. 
• Stir in the grated onion and scallions.
• Place on a serving dish and decorate with Kalamata olives and a few Salonika peppers (these peppers are very similar to pepperoncini). A nice accompaniment would be some sliced tomatoes or cucumbers.  Serve as an appetizer with toast or pita bread.

Bottled tarama purchased at the supermarket

What we purchase as bottled tarama is the salted and cured roe of carp fish. What is roe? That’s the ripe ovary which contains masses of fish eggs. Carp roe (or hard roe), is aged for about a year before it’s ready to be sold as tarama. Tarama is not eatable plain and should be turned into taramosalata before eating. Taramosalata is made by adding bread, lemon juice and oil to a portion of tarama. The mixture should have a light orange colour. The more it is diluted with bread and oil, the lighter its colour becomes.

SPANAKOPITA

Spanakopita is a savoury pie, well known to Greeks and non-Greeks alike. It's made with spinach, scallions, aromatic parsley and dill, and a generous amount of the ubiquitous feta cheese. These ingredients are mixed together and are spread between layers of phyllo dough. The spanakopita is then baked, and it can be eaten hot or cold. Store it in the refrigerator for one or two days, three if you must, but keep in mind that phyllo tends to get soggy, therefore, its storage life should be short. In most homes, this happens by default, since no one can resist sneaking to the fridge for one more piece of spanakopita.

Before we go ahead with the recipe, some words about phyllo dough. Phyllo (фύλλο), means leaf in Greek. That describes this dough perfectly: it's made up of several fragile sheets packaged together and resembling thin, transparent leaves.

• There are two types of phyllo: store-bought and homemade.
• The homemade type is not difficult to make. If one can bake bread, one can become accomplished at making phyllo. It takes a bit of practice and a bit of patience, but the result is worth it. Homemade has a better flavour than store bought, and it has a denser, thicker texture, which is more desirable for savoury pies.
• The commercial variety is also very good, and very, very convenient, thus widely used. It is sold in one pound packages and is available in different thicknesses.
• Phyllo sheets measure 18" x 14" but can be cut with kitchen shears as required to fit the recipe or pan. Phyllo can be bought fresh or frozen. Either variety is good, but make sure that you check its expiration date.
• The thin variety of phyllo, usually labelled #4, is meant to be used for pastries such as baklava. Each 1 pound box contains approximately 24 sheets.
• The thicker variety sometimes referred to as "country phyllo" contains about eight sheets per 1 pound box, and is more suited for savoury cheese and vegetable-filled pies.
• If you're going to make baklava, use the #4 phyllo. If you're making spanakopita, do yourself a favour and look for the thicker variety. If your supermarket does not carry thick phyllo, visit a Greek or Middle Eastern market. There will be plenty of it there. (If in a pinch, the thinner variety can be used. Layer 8 sheets on the bottom, 4 in the middle, six on top, and don't forget to brush each sheet with oil).
• As you are working with phyllo, keep it covered with a clean kitchen towel to keep it moist. It dries out very quickly and then becomes brittle and difficult to use. Remove one sheet at a time keeping the remainder covered.
• Do not worry if you tear a piece of phyllo by mistake. You can patch pieces by joining them together. Use them on the bottom or middle layer of your pastry or pie so that it will not show in the final product.
• No matter what thickness or shape you are using, each piece of phyllo must be brushed with oil (or butter) as it is layered. This keeps the sheets separated, giving you a fluffy and airy end product. 

Ingredients:

2 (10-ounce) packages frozen chopped spinach, thawed and drained well. Make sure there is very little liquid remaining in the spinach.
1/4 cup of olive oil
3/4 cup finely chopped fresh dill
1 cup of finely chopped fresh parsley
1 red onion, chopped
5 scallions, chopped
1 leek, well rinsed and chopped (use the white and light green parts)
3 cloves garlic, chopped
3/4 pound of feta cheese
1/4 cup ricotta cheese
4 tablespoons Parmesan cheese, divided
3 tablespoons breadcrumbs
1 egg
1 teaspoon pepper
1 pound package of thick phyllo pastry sheets (# 10), defrosted as per package directions if purchased frozen.
1/2 cup oil, a combination of olive and another good vegetable oil to brush the pan and phyllo 

A pastry brush

Directions:

• In a large pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When hot, sauté the leeks, onions, scallions, and garlic until they soften, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon. 
• Add the spinach, stir and cook about five minutes,  stirring occasionally.
• Transfer to a colander and set aside to drain for at least one hour.
• Meanwhile, bring the packaged phyllo dough to room temperature.
• Remove the spinach mixture from the colander and place in a bowl.
• Beat the egg with a fork and add to the spinach mixture. Toss well to combine.
• Add the dill, parsley, and pepper. Stir to combine.
• Using a fork break the feta into chunky pieces. 
• Add to the spinach mixture. 
• Add the ricotta cheese and two tablespoons of the Parmesan cheese. Toss to combine. 
• Preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C. 
• Brush the bottom and sides of a deep baking pan with oil (the pan can be round, square, or rectangular).
• Layer 3 of the phyllo sheets on the bottom, brushing each sheet with the olive oil.
• Spoon half the spinach mixture on top of the sheets and spread evenly. Sprinkle some of the breadcrumbs over the spinach. These will absorb any excess water.
• Layer one phyllo leaf on top of the breadcrumbs. Brush it with oil and then sprinkle a bit of Parmesan cheese over it. Layer another phyllo leaf on top of that, and again brush with oil.
• Spoon the rest of the spinach mixture on top, and spread evenly. Once again, sprinkle some bread crumbs over the spinach.
• Layer the remaining phyllo sheets on top, brushing each sheet with oil. Overlapping phyllo can be trimmed with kitchen shears or folded in.
• Brush the top of the spanakopita lightly and evenly with oil and sprinkle with a bit of Parmesan cheese.
•  Score into serving-size squares, cutting through to the bottom. Sprinkling the top with cheese is optional, but you must brush with oil!
• Bake in the centre of the oven for about 45 minutes or until golden brown. When done, remove from the oven and allow to cool 20 minutes before serving.
• For Greek pitas don't use butter. Save your butter for the baklava. For the spinach pies, cheese pies, or any other savoury pie, oil is the way to go! ou'll get a lighter, tastier, healthier product. 

IN MEMORY OF BASTILLE

My Yiayia's Pork Chops With Cumin and Oregano Rub.

This way of making pork chops is a tradition in my family. I've never seen it served anywhere else, therefore, I do indeed wonder about the origin of the recipe. It's something my grandmother and mother liked to cook in winter. I learned how to make it just by watching. 

The dominant seasoning in this recipe is cumin, so much so, that when I think of cumin I think of pork chops, and vice versa. Cumin has a smoky flavour and is a favourite spice in Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisine. Here, it's combined with Greek oregano, garlic, rosemary, and onions. The results are fragrant and delicious. 

These pork chops were made on a blisteringly cold January day. I broiled them indoors, in my warm kitchen. If you can brave the winter cold, fire up the grill and cook them outdoors. You will deserve an extra pork chop for your efforts.

I don't have specific measurements for the ingredients. I "eye" everything. However, remember that cumin has a strong flavour so don't use so much that it overpowers the dish. For cumin, it's best to have cumin seeds on hand and grind them as needed.

Here's what to do:

Wash and dry the pork chops. Rub both sides with a combination of lemon juice, olive oil, and a scant amount of Dijon mustard. 

In a bowl, combine freshly ground cumin, dried Greek oregano, fresh rosemary, minced garlic, salt and pepper. Sprinkle these seasonings on both sides of the pork chops. 

Slice an onion into rings. Place half of the rings on the bottom of a flat food storage container. Place the pork chops on top of the onions and cover them with the rest of the onion slices. Cover the container and let rest in the refrigerator for about four hours. 

Shake the onions off and broil or grill the pork chops. 

As the porks chops are cooking, slice an onion into rings. I a skillet, heat about two tablespoons of olive oil. Add the onion slices and cook, stirring often, until they are caramelised. 

Top each pork chop with caramelised onions and serve with lemon slices.

 

I like to serve these pork chops over rice cooked with pignoli nuts, however, grandmother served them plain, just with the caramelised onions and lemon. They were the first course for Sunday dinner. There were usually a lot of us around her table therefore, a second course was needed and appreciated!  

Well, those were the good old days when grandmother (or yiayia) ruled the kitchen. Today, when I cook, about ninety-five per cent of the time, I cook one-course meals. And I want to confess that the addition of Dijon mustard was my own idea. It's the only ingredient not found in grandmother's recipe. I don't think my yiayia liked to cook with mustard.  

Apple Streusel Cake

Ingredients for the batter:

1/2 cup butter
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
rind from one large lemon
2 large eggs, separated
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 cup milk

Ingredients for the fruit:

3 or 4 baking apples (enough to completely cover the batter)
Juice of one lemon

Ingredients for the streusel:

1/3 cup all-purpose flour
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 cup cold butter, cut into pieces
1/4 cup slivered almonds

Directions:

Have the ingredients at room temperature before beginning to make the cake. Preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C. Grease a square pan or a round cake pan.

Make the streusel topping:

In a large bowl, mix together the flour, sugar, almonds and ground cinnamon. Cut in the butter with a pastry blender or fork until it resembles coarse crumbs. Set aside while you make the cake batter.

Prepare the fruit topping:

Peel the apples and cut them in quarters. Slice each quarter lengthwise into four pieces. Place the apples in a bowl, pour the lemon juice over them and mix well. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside. The lemon juice will give a wonderful flavour to the apples and it will also prevent them from browning while the batter is being made.

Make the batter:

• Cream the butter. 
• Add the sugar and beat until light and fluffy. 
• Scrape down the sides of the bowl and beat in the vanilla and lemon peel. 
• Add the egg yolks one at a time, beating well after each addition.
• Add the flour in three batches, alternating with the milk and ending with the flour. Do not over-beat, beat only until combined.
• In a separate bowl whisk the egg whites until stiff peaks are formed.
• Very gently, fold the egg whites into the batter in two additions. 
• Spread the batter onto the bottom of the prepared pan, smoothing the top with an offset spatula.
• Arrange the apples evenly on the batter. 
• Sprinkle the streusel topping over the apples.
• Bake for about 50 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the centre of the cake comes out clean.
•  Remove from the oven and let the cake cool. Serve warm or at room temperature.

HERBED BEEF AND VEGETABLE STEW FOR A COLD DAY!

This recipe serves eight people. It's nice for serving to a large crowd but if there is no crowd for dinner there will be an ample amount to provide leftovers for the next day's dinner. That's a good thing since stew tastes better the next day! The wine and herbs give lots of flavour to the stew and turn it into an irresistible meal for a cold day. 

A good way of preparing beef for stew is to let it sit in a plain rub for about an hour. Season the beef with salt, black pepper and oregano, cover well and set aside at room temperature for one hour. Once the hour is up you can either begin to cook it or let it chill in the refrigerator for up to 12 hours. 

 

Ingredients for the stew:

• 2 lb cubed stew beef, such as bottom round roast. I have discovered that this cut of meat is excellent for stew and I find it preferable to chuck roast. 
• Salt, black pepper and oregano
• 6 tablespoons olive oil 
• 1 large red onion, chopped
• 1 leek, chopped, washed well, white and light green parts only
• 2 shallots, chopped
• 2 celery stalks, chopped
• 4 garlic cloves, minced 
• 3 or 4 tablespoons of flour
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• 1 cup of good wine, and there is nothing wrong with using white wine when cooking beef stew
• 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
• 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
• 3 cups chicken broth plus some extra on hand to add if the liquid evaporates to the point where the stew will start to get dry. I use chicken broth because if find it brings to the stew a lighter taste .
• a few sprigs of thyme
• 1 long sprig of rosemary
• some sprigs of parsley
• some kitchen twine
• 2 bay leaves
• one or two leaves from the green part of a leek (washed really well to get the sand off)
• 1 & 1/2 lb Yukon gold potatoes, unpeeled, cut into pieces.
• 3 carrots, scrubbed well, left unpeeled, sliced into pieces
• 1 cup frozen flat Italian green beans (optional)
• 1 cup frozen peas

Directions:

• Make a bouquet garni: envelop the thyme, rosemary, and parsley with the green leek leaves, and tie them up with kitchen twine. 
• Make sure the meat is at room temperature.
• Trim the meat of fat and cut into 1 and 1/2 or 2-inch pieces.
• Season with salt, black pepper and oregano.
• Dredge in the flour.
• Preheat the oven to 300 F.
• In a Dutch oven heat 2 tablespoons of the oil and while mixing, sauté the onions, celery, and leek. Once the onions become translucent, mix in the garlic. Sauté for one minute. Remove from the pot and reserve. 
• Heat some more olive oil and brown the meat well on all sides. Make sure you do not overcrowd the meat because it will start boiling and steaming. What you want instead is browning, therefore you may need to cook the meat pieces in two batches. If needed, when cooking the second batch add some more oil to the pot. 
• When the meat is browned well, remove it from the pot, cover and set aside.
• Add the tomato paste, mix it around in the pan, then add the balsamic vinegar and Worcestershire sauce. Stir for about one minute.
• Add the wine and bay leaves. Stir to deglaze the pot as you allow the alcohol in the wine to cook off.
• Return the meat and the onion mixture to the pot. 
• Add the broth along with the bouquet garni.
• Season with salt and black pepper, bring to a simmer, cover, and place in the oven. 
• Cook for two hours.
• Remove from the oven, add the potatoes, carrots (and if using, the green beans). Mix well.
• Place back in the oven and cook for another half hour to forty-five minutes or until the potatoes are soft.   
• Ten minutes before the stew is finished add the peas and season with salt and pepper as needed.
• Remove and discard the bay leaves and bouquet garni.
• Plate the stew; ready to serve!  

This photo shows the version with the green beans. I also added extra tomato in this rendition, however it was not to my liking. I find that beef has a substantial enough taste to stand on its own, without tomatoes. But it's all a matter of individual taste, isn't it?