Tuesday, 25 December 2012

MELOMAKARONA with ORANGE FLAVOR


Merry Christmas one and all, and here is a very appropriate post for Christmas Day:  a brand new recipe for melomakarona.  I made the melomakarona on Christmas Eve, and as I was waiting for them to come out of the oven it started to snow.  How surprised I was!  We were having an uncommonly warm winter, however nature changed her mind about our toasty temperatures and gave us a perfect Christmas present by dusting our lawns with a light coating of snow. Lawns sprinkled with frozen powdered sugar.  And there was I, at the counter in front of my kitchen window, sprinkling honey and crushed walnuts on my fragrant cookies, looking at the slow, plump snowflakes outside, my Christmas Eve snowflakes.  Happy!  So, Merry Christmas, and have a safe, loving and peaceful day.  Keep up that spirit all year long. Not hard to do, there aren't that many days left to this year. Right?

Melomakarona are the quintessential Greek Christmas cookie.  I have some information on their history in the other melomacarona recipe posted on this blog.  The recipe on this page is one I tried for the first time, and as it turned out it was a great recipe.  It even got the approval of my mother, who is on the stingy side with her compliments. It's a recipe based on one by Greek master pastry chef Stelios Parliaros.  It was well worth making.  The cookies turned out crunchy on the outside, really soft on the inside, they had the fragrant aroma and taste of oranges, and the syrup in which they were dipped made them really delicious. This is a sophisticated version of melomakarona, with prominent orange and honey flavored notes.  Loved it, loved it, loved it, but I also love the other recipe for melomacarona that's posted here, which contains a heavier dose of spices.  I suppose I will have to alternate between the two recipes from one year to the other.

Chef Parliaros lives in Athens, where he has a TV show and where he markets his concoctions in several patisserie shops that he owns.  He is a French trained pastry chef, and his recipes are highly praised.  I watch his demonstrations on You Tube and he inspires me. So I gathered the information for this recipe, translated it, got the ingredients and made the melomakarona.  In the end of my post I will show the You Tube demonstration for his melomakarona.  It's in Greek, so you may not not understand what he is saying, but you will see how the chef molds the cookies, which I think is an important demonstration, especially for me, who has trouble making decently shaped cookies.  
The most important piece of advice the chef gives is to mix the dough by hand, and to work in gentle, light strokes.  In this way the dough will stay fluffy and the oil that is in the melomakarona will not leak out during baking.  If the oil leaks out the cookies will turn out dry.  You want a cookie that is crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside.  Working quickly and softly should provide that result.  Another piece of advice he gives is to have the syrup cold and the melomakarona hot when you dip them in the syrup.  He is very insistent about that.  So here we go:  


First make the syrup.  This can be made the day before, as it needs to be cold when used.
Ingredients:
2 cups water
3 cups sugar
3 sticks of cinnamon 
1 cup honey (use thyme honey if available, because it has a strong flavor.  Orange blossom honey can also be used.)
the peel from 2 medium oranges
1/2 cup orange juice
This syrup is very good.
Directions:

  • Into a pot add the water, the sugar, the orange peel, the orange juice and the cinnamon sticks.
  • Place it on the stove over medium-high heat, let it come to a boil, and then turn down the heat.  Cook for 1 minute and remove from the heat.
  • Add the honey and mix.
  • Let the syrup cool down and then transfer it to a wide container with a lid.  Cover and let get cold. 
The melomakarona are made next.  No need to use a mixer, this should all be done by hand.  Chef weighed everything, and so did I. Where possible I converted the quantities into cup measurements. 

Ingredients:
2 cups freshly squeezed orange juice (or use the best quality store bought juice), weight is 400 grams
3 cups canola or sunflower oil (chef uses sunflower), weight is 530 grams
5 tablespoons butter, melted in the microwave
1/4 cup powdered sugar (powdered sugar helps to add color while baking)
1 teaspoon baking soda
1  1/2  teaspoons cinnamon
1/2   teaspoon ground cloves
zest from one orange
about 10 cups (to weigh 1,200 grams) all purpose flour.  There is no need to sift the flour
walnuts, chopped
honey to use while layering 

Directions:
  • In a deep container add all the wet ingredients including the melted butter.
  • To that add the powdered sugar and the spices.
  • Mix the ingredients.
  • Add all of the flour along with the baking soda. Mix with your hands gently, starting from the middle of the bowl and progressing toward the outside.  Don't use a mixer, it will destroy this dough.  Stop mixing as soon as the liquid is incorporated with the flour and the dough begins to form.  The dough will have a wonderful aroma.
Shape into ovals and place on a rack.
  • Shape the cookies and then score lines on their surface as is indicated in the pictures. 
Roll on the rack to make decorative grooves.  They give character to the cookie and they also hold in the syrup.  There is a demonstration on how to shape them on the You Tube video below.
  • Place them on parchment lined baking sheets and bake them at 360°F between 25 to 30 minutes depending on the oven.  When done they should have a dark golden color.
Done!  
  • As soon as they come out of the oven drop them in the cold syrup.  Turn them over with a large spoon and leave them in the syrup for about one minute.  If you leave them in for too long they will become saturated with syrup (that's not necessarily bad, they do get a bit soggy and they become really sweet, but they still taste good). 

  • Place them on a rack and let them drain off excess syrup.

  • Prepare a serving platter by spreading a little honey and some walnuts on its surface. 
So I turned my back and right away 3 cookies were gone...
  • Add a layer of melomakarona and then repeat the same procedure, layering honey, walnuts and cookies, ending with a light layer of honey and walnuts.
  • This recipe makes about 70 really delicious, honey-orange-cinnamon flavored, fragrant cookies.


Some notes:
*If you cannot find oranges that are flavorful and juicy, buy a good quality prepared orange juice.  
*If you watch the full video you will see the chef stuff some of the cookies with walnuts.  This is a popular variation.  I made half of my melomakarona without stuffing, while I stuffed the other half with walnut pieces.   *Melomakarona can be kept fresh for 10 days. 

Saturday, 22 December 2012

SALTY KOULOURAKIA / BÂTON SALÉ / AΛΜΥΡΆ ΚΟΥΛΟΥΡΆΚΙΑ AND A BEER


These little treats are just like potato chips, in that you can't eat just one.  You have to go back and get another and another. It's just a guilty pleasure. They are salty, cheesy, buttery, they melt in your mouth, and they are irresistible! The dough is a little crunchy on the outside and a lot flaky on the inside!!! 

If you are familiar with koulourakia, you know that they are a sweet buttery Greek cookie. Here is a different version: these babies are not sweet ... they are savoury, or as Greeks call them, they are "salty koulourakia." They are also referred to as "bâton salé," which in French means "salty sticks." I don't know why they have two names but they can be found in patisserie shops all over Greece, and they are a very popular snack.

Bâton Salé or Salty Koulourakia  ... Presenting this wonderful, addictive, savoury cookie!!!

This recipe was given to me by my aunt Sophia, who told me that she got it from the owner of a patisserie shop. It's supposed to be a top-secret recipe. I don't know what methods my aunt employed to get it, and I don't want to find out, either. Suffice it to say that it's a great recipe!  

Salty koulourakia go well with drinks, especially with beer. If you want to drink that Heineken so you can forget the one you love who doesn' love you back ... go ahead, drink the beer, you're probably not in the mood for a snack. On the other hand, if a party is happening, make salty koulourakia, I recommend them! 

Mix by hand, no need to use electric appliances. This recipe is incredibly easy and quick to make. To prepare it only requires one bowl, a whisk, a measuring spoon, and a measuring cup! The full recipe will yield 70 pieces but it can be cut in half. 




Ingredients:

1 cup (2 sticks) butter
1 cup good vegetable oil
1 cup milk
2 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon pepper
3 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 cup ground Pecorino Romano
2 tablespoons feta cheese, finely crumbled
about 4 cups of flour
1 egg beaten with a tablespoon of milk, a few dashes of poppy seeds and a tablespoon of Pecorino Romano cheese: this will be used as egg wash
Additional toppings: sprinkle slivered almonds or sesame seeds on top of the egg wash


Directions:

Melt the butter, let it cool and then whisk it with the oil until well blended.  Add the eggs and continue whisking.
 
Add the milk, the salt, pepper, and the cheeses, and continue beating.

Sift the flour with the baking powder.  Add it gradually to the butter mixture, mixing between each addition. 

Turn the dough onto a board and knead, adding more flour if necessary, not so much that the dough gets tough. The dough should be soft and pliable.

Cut the dough into pieces of about 1 inch in diameter.
  
Shape into rods or circles.
Place on parchment-lined baking sheets, and brush with the egg wash.

Use some toppings if desired.
  
Bake in a preheated 350º F/180º C oven until golden in colour (about 25 to
30 minutes). 

give them different shapes ...


top them with almonds, have them with tea ... OR with beer ...



Saturday, 15 December 2012

SPANAKORIZO (Braised Spinach and Rice, made in the Greek Style)


To Greeks, braised spinach and rice is a very popular recipe that can be served as a main meal or as a side dish. The best way to eat it? No bread, no salad, just spanakorizo! In the southern regions of Greece, there is usually tomato or tomato paste that is added during cooking. Up north it's out with the tomatoes, in with the lemon juice. Just as an aside, I think lemon flavour makes a recipe really Greek because Greeks try to introduce lemons in just about anything that can be eaten: is it a dessert? Add some lemon juice. Is it a salad? Lemon juice, and while you are at it, throw in some lemon zest just for good measure. I am not finished: having breakfast? Add some lemon juice to your tea. The basic rule is never, ever, to cook anything without adding lemon. 

  

Ingredients:

4 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, chopped
4 scallions, chopped
1 red onion, chopped
¾ to 1 cup rice 
3 tablespoons fresh dill, chopped
2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped
2 pounds fresh spinach washed and chopped (or if you’re in a hurry use the frozen spinach that comes  pre-chopped)
Juice of 1 ½ lemons
4 ½ cups water or vegetable juice
Salt and pepper to taste
1 carrot, diced (totally optional)
lemon slices for garnish
olive oil to drizzle on top


Directions:

Heat the oil in the saucepan.
Add the onion and garlic.  Sauté until softened.
Add the rice and sauté until the rice is well coated with the olive oil.
Add the water or broth and let it come to a boil.
Add the spinach and stir until wilted.
Reduce the heat and add the scallions, parsley, dill, lemon juice, and salt and pepper.  
Mix, cover and simmer about 35 to 40 minutes until almost all of the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is cooked. 
Serve garnished with lemon slices and for an extra depth of flavour drizzle some good extra virgin olive oil on top! 


Monday, 3 December 2012

A CARROT CAKE FOR "HEARTBURN"

It was so easy to become a fan of Nora Ephron! An inveterate New Yorker who occasionally put up with living in such backwaters as Washington DC and Hollywood, Nora Ephron was an author known for her intelligent and sophisticated prose. She wrote in a spirited manner, hiding soulfulness and vulnerability inside paragraphs brimming with wit and sarcasm. 

In addition to novels and essays, Ephron wrote screenplays, producing and directing some of them when they were made into movies. She was a Hollywood power player whose untimely death at the age of 71 came as a shock. 

For years, she had been in remission from leukemia, a condition she chose to keep hidden. She had planned her own memorial, and because she was passionate about food and cooking, she wanted favourite recipes included in the service. She died from pneumonia, a complication caused by chemotherapy. I admired Nora Ephron; her intelligence and creativity remain an inspiration.
  
What made Ephron famous was the roman à clef “Heartburn,” a satire based on the collapse of her marriage to journalist Carl Bernstein. He threatened to sue over its publication but never did.  I guess “Heartburn” hit Mr Bernstein too close to home. I remember the gossip going around at the time concerning his infidelity. Mr Bernstein was quite a womanizer, and I have often wondered what compels that sort of man to marry. Why did he bother?

“Heartburn,” is a funny story of love, betrayal and heartbreak. Humour acts as the salve which makes the heroine’s predicament bearable. Her name is Rachel Samstat, and she’s a cookbook author seven months pregnant with her second child. At seven months she is bloated, her feet feel “like old cucumbers” and she suffers from what she describes as “terminal heartburn.” To compound her misery, it’s at this stage that she stumbles upon the fact that her husband, Mark, is having an affair. What’s more, she's acquainted with her husband’s mistress and has had her over the house for carrot cake! 

At first, Rachel vows to win back Mark, despite the fact that he confesses he loves his mistress and has never loved another woman as much. Still, he wants Rachel to stay with him, at least until the birth of their child. How kind.  

Eventually, Rachel takes her children and leaves Mark. The catalyst is her discovery that he has spent a small fortune as a down-payment on a necklace for his mistress. Soon thereafter, a sense of clarity comes to Rachel.“You can love someone so much,” she thinks, “that you don’t see anything at all. You decide to trust him and you kind of notice that things aren’t what they were, but it’s a distant bell, it’s through a filter… I can’t stand feeling sorry for myself.  I can’t stand feeling like a victim… I can’t stand sitting here with all this rage turning to hurt and then to tears.”  

Rachel tells the story of her marriage “because if I tell the story I can make you laugh, and I would rather have you laugh at me than feel sorry for me. Because if I tell the story it doesn’t hurt as much.” In this manner, Rachel can begin to forget. 

The narrative of the novel is interspersed with Rachel’s recipes, some of them quite mouthwatering. There’s even a recipe index at the end of the book:  Cheesecake, page 49. Key lime pie, page 166. Vinaigrette, page 177. 


There’s been some criticism that the characters in the book are not well developed. My answer is that Ephron’s focus is mainly on satire, which is a genre that does not necessarily rely on a heavy-duty psychological evaluation of character motivation. The main purpose of satire is social criticism via the use of wit as a weapon. 

Ephron’s novel was socially significant. At the time of its publication in the early 1980s, divorce rates were climbing, but divorced women kept quiet about their predicament. Ephron was the first to write openly about living with a philandering husband and about experiencing a painful divorce. She empowered women by changing the way divorce was talked about. She encouraged women to talk candidly about it and to share their stories.  

With this reading of “Heartburn,” I am participating in Cook the Books, a bimonthly (not semimonthly) Internet book club/cooking event that features a different book for each round. The challenge is to read the book chosen, cook something inspired by it, and then blog about it. I chose to make carrot cake because that's what the unsuspecting heroine of “Heartburn” serves to her husband’s mistress. Years ago, I found myself in a situation similar to Rachel’s. One of the most important things I learned from my experience was not to be the victim in a relationship. Love, cohabitation, marriage, all relationships, even friendships … they should be victim free. Easier said than done, but as Rachel Samstat says in “Heartburn,” when your dream dies, you are left “with a choice: You can settle for reality, or you can go off, like a fool, and dream another dream.”


WASHINGTON CARROT CAKE

I call this my “Washington” carrot cake. That’s because the recipe was given to me by a wonderful cook and family member who lives in the Washington DC area. This is one of the first cakes I learned to make successfully, and it has been in my cake repertoire since I first made it, in the early 1980s. The cake is fruity and tastes a little like a spice cake. It's made with canola oil and with carrots, so as far as cakes go, I guess it's kind of "healthy." It can be eaten plain; that's why I usually bake it in a 9x13 pan. For a holiday treat, bake the batter in round pans and then slather cream cheese frosting on top, on the sides and between the cake layers.
  
Ingredients:
butter and flour to grease the pan
2 1/2 cups flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons baking soda
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 1/2 cups peeled and grated carrots(about 10 carrots)
1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts 
3/4 cup canola oil
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup buttermilk
4 eggs
1 cup chopped pineapple, drained well


For the Frosting:

8 tbsp. unsalted butter softened and cut into pieces.
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon grated orange zest
1/2 cup mascarpone cheese
2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese
2 cups confectioner sugar
1 cup finely chopped walnuts

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 350° F.  
Grease and flour a 9" x 13" baking dish with the butter and flour. This is an important step, don't forget it.
Gather the carrots, walnuts, and drained pineapple into a large bowl.
Into a medium size bowl whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, and salt. Pour them on top of the carrot mixture.


Into a really large bowl whisk together the oil, sugar and buttermilk. Add the eggs one at a time and beat after each addition. Add the vanilla and beat in. Fold in the carrot mixture in batches. Make sure that you don’t over-mix; mix until smooth.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 45 minutes. Lower the heat to 325º F, and bake another 15 to 20 minutes. 
Let the cake cool in the pan for about 1/2 an hour.  Then turn it out onto a cake rack and let it cool completely.


For frosting, you can frost just the top if you've baked the cake in a 9x13 pan. If you want frosting on the top, sides and between layers, bake the batter in round pans.


For the Frosting:

Use an electric mixer with the paddle attachment.  On medium speed beat the butter with the mascarpone and cream cheeses until they are smooth. Add the vanilla and the orange zest and beat until they are integrated. 
Lower the speed and add the sugar in batches, beating for about a minute between additions. Finish beating by bringing the frosting to a smooth consistency. Chill and spread the icing evenly over the cake. When done, press the nuts onto the cake.  Chill before serving.

Sunday, 25 November 2012

CAULIFLOWER PUREE



That's one sexy cauliflower, I said to myself. And I just had to have it. It was living at my local supermarket, on a display counter, nestled between all its other sexy cauliflower friends. But this one had to be mine; I was impressed with its quality.
Cauliflower and I have not always been friends. Until I was about twelve years old, I didn't even want to be in the same room with the stuff. But then, somehow, its taste grew on me. I liked a version that an aunt urged me to taste: a simple salad made up of boiled cauliflower flavoured with olive oil and lemon. It was Lent, and we were fasting. Perhaps that's why I liked the cauliflower so much. To me, fasting meant and still means to be hungry on a continual basis. That long ago day, my aunt's cauliflower tasted unexpectedly good! I've since cooked similar salads many times, but my favourite new way to prepare cauliflower is to make it into a puree. It makes an excellent low fat, low carb side dish, and a really healthy and lighter alternative to mashed potatoes.

Ingredients:

5 tablespoons olive oil
2 heads cauliflower cut up into florets
3 garlic cloves, chopped
salt and pepper to taste
2 teaspoons herbes de Provence
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 cups whole milk
parsley for garnish
chives for garnish


Directions:

  • Heat four tablespoons of the oil in a large saucepan. Add the cauliflower and garlic and stir to coat with the oil.
  • Season with the salt and pepper and the herbes de Provence. 
  • Add the milk and the mustard and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the cauliflower is tender, about 20 minutes.
  • Using an immersion blender, puree the cauliflower with the cooking liquid until the mixture is smooth and thick. 
  • Taste and season with more salt and pepper if needed. 
  • Place in a serving bowl and serve garnished with parsley, chives and the rest of the olive oil.



Saturday, 24 November 2012

VELVETY BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP

                            Happy Thanksgiving!!!



We had this lovely soup as part of our Thanksgiving dinner.  It was truly delicious, with a superbly velvet texture. Not a lot of ingredients in it, not a lot of spices to flavour it with, nothing to interfere with the subtle buttery taste of the squash. The soup's simplicity contributed to its scrumptiousness. The recipe is based on one from Jaques Pepin, chef extraordinaire.
To make the soup, I took the easy route and bought my squash peeled and chopped and ready to cook. Also, as a special treat, I substituted some of the cream with coconut milk. We made it a few weeks ago just to test the recipe, and at that time, we only used cream. I must admit the soup tastes great either way! 


 Ingredients:

4 cups chopped butternut squash
3 leeks, cleaned well and chopped (use the white and light green parts)
1 onion, chopped
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger root
1 teaspoon black pepper
salt to taste
3 cups vegetable stock
1/2 cup coconut milk
1/2 heavy cream 
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/3 cup chopped pistachios

Directions:
  • In a heavy soup pan heat the olive oil.  
  • Add the onions and leeks and sauté for about 2 to 3 minutes.
  • Add the squash, the ginger and half the pepper and sauté for 3 more minutes, stirring.
  • Add the stock. Cover the pot and simmer for about 25 to 30 minutes, until the squash is soft.
  • Add salt to taste, and then add the rest of the black pepper. Taste and let boil for about one more minute.
  • Let cool slightly and blend with an immersion blender until the soup is smooth. 
  • The soup can be cooked up to this point a day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.
  • When ready to serve, add the cream, the coconut milk, and the cinnamon. 
  • Mix well, heat, garnish with chopped pistachios and serve! 

Happy Thanksgiving!!!


Monday, 22 October 2012

RISI E BISI and Across The River And Into The Trees we go!



Give me peas and pasta, give me peas and rice, I love them both. Who can resist those glorious, gratifying combinations? Who indeed, especially when fresh peas are in season! I cook Risi e Bisi often, but I refer to it in the boring vernacular: risotto with peas. What's wrong with me? What indeed? This Venetian recipe deserves a more poetic name. Yes, Risi and Bisi! 
I've been reading Hemingway's "Across The River And Into The Trees," for this edition of  Novel Food.  Hemingway's novel is set mostly in Venice and it seems to me that a plateful of Risi e Bisi will make a very nice accompaniment to my reading endeavours. Of course, not a single character in the novel eats risotto (or risi e bisi). They tackle huge lobsters served with mayonnaise, they order scaloppine, and cauliflower and mashed potatoes and lots of wine. As is usual with Hemingway, there's lots of alcohol making the rounds, and lots of guns and war stories and hunting and eating of freshly killed animals. 
The characters saunter in and out of Harry's Bar, and there's one lively passage in which the protagonist visits a Venetian market and orders about a dozen fresh oysters. He shucks them in masterful strokes and eats them on the spot, savouring their seawater liquor ...
Let me stick to my Risi e Bisi. However, I do intend to order a vicarious order of oysters if they can be shucked for me by Hemingway. We'll share them on the spot, right in that very same Venetian market. 



Venetians cook risi e bisi to a consistency that's somewhere between a soup and a risotto. Call it a thick soup and eat it with a spoon. This dish is served especially on the 25th of April to celebrate the feast day of St. Mark, the city's patron saint. Here's how I cook Risi e Bisi, a Venetian treat: 
Ingredients:
8 cups vegetable broth (or as needed)
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion, chopped well
2 celery ribs, chopped well
black pepper to taste (no need to use salt, there is salt in the cheese and the broth) 
1 cup arborio rice
2 cups peas (if fresh peas are available, by all means, buy them and use them. Shell them to yield 2 cups and reserve the pea shells for the broth)
if frozen peas are to be used, have ready 2 cups of pea shells such as from snow peas
3 or 4 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
¼ cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese
Ready for their closeup! 
Directions:
  • Boil the pea shells in the broth until they are almost melting away. Use four cups of broth and let boil until the broth has reduced by half. At that point, the pea shells will have become very soft and they will have yielded all their flavour. With a slotted spoon remove the shells and use the pea-flavoured broth for the risi e bisi. Keep the broth warm so that it’s ready to add to the risotto. Keep a ladle nearby. 
  • Heat the oil in a Dutch oven and add the onion and celery. 
  • Cook about 5 minutes, then add the rice and cook, stirring for 2 to 3 minutes. 
  • Add the concentrated broth (2 cups) and the dill, and keep stirring until the broth has been absorbed by the rice. 
  • Add another three cups of broth, and bring to a boil.
  •  Lower the heat to simmer, cover and let cook for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
  • Cook the peas in one cup of broth. Cook them for about ten minutes, less if you prefer: peas cook very quickly and you don't want them overcooked.
  • Add the peas to the rice and stir. Both rice and peas should be tender.
  • Mix in some black pepper, the parsley, and the grated cheese. 

  • Remove from the heat. The mixture should be creamy, not dry. Add more broth if it looks dry to you. Serve right away.


Cover of the first American Edition
Charles Scribner's Sons (1950). The title of the book refers to a comment made by Stonewall Jackson shortly before he died. 
Hemingway's novel "Across The River And Into The Trees" is about a love affair. But there's not much of a love affair between the fifty-year-old protagonist, Cantwell, and his eighteen-year-old Contessa. The two do try to share some romantic moments, however, more pronounced is the love Cantwell has for Venice, a city which to him is unrivalled.

Cantwell is a battle-scarred army officer with advancing heart disease. He’s facing the fact that he is near death. During a visit to Venice, he reminisces about the time he spent there as a young soldier. It was during World War I, and it seems that every Venetian corner reminds him of that time. It was a time when he believed that he was immortal, and immortal even in battle, but presently he realizes that his immortality is lost or never was.  
I think that's why he has one last, spontaneous affair with someone so much younger than himself. He is trying to recapture a time and a youth that are gone forever. The Contessa, in turn, is mourning her deceased father: we get the sense that her attraction to Cantwell stems from a wish to be a daughter again.  
Not a prudent union if it can even be called a union. Hemingway by no means convinces us that there is a real meeting of the souls between these two. He may be purposefully pointing against it. It’s ironic that Cantwell often calls his young love interest “daughter,” something certainly considered an unfortunate misnomer in today’s society, but alas quite acceptable in 1950, the date of the novel’s publication.
While on a hunting trip, Cantwell summons up recollections of his past. After a period of introspection, he experiences chest pains and dies. He faces his approaching death with bravery. He goes into death with the same sense of purpose he had when going into battle. That's the Hemingway we know (and love)? The character has resigned himself to the inevitable and faces it with bravery. He accepts the rule of the jungle and the survival of the fittest.
The writing appears a bit tired in some sections. One senses the ebbing of Hemingway's powers. By this time the author spent his time mostly drinking and he was in and out of depressive states, situations not conducive to the art or writing. 
An interesting novel, but one that lacks the evocative power of Hemingway's earlier work. However, realism is a dirty business, so perhaps evocations are not needed here.

This is my contribution to Novel Food, the literary - culinary event hosted by Simona from BricioleYou can find the round-up of the 17th edition of Novel Food here.    
This facsimile of the dustjacket is available for purchase. Here's my question: why?