Etymologically speaking, the word koulouri derives from antiquity. In ancient Greece, the word kollyrio* described a small round-shaped bread made of barley flour. Later on, during Byzantine times, kollyrio evolved into the word kollykio, and that word evolved into the modern day word koulouri. All three mean the same thing: a small roundish bread. (Hold on. We're not done: In some regions, it’s also known as semiti or simit, a term that derives from the Greek word semigdali -- semolina to us. Semigdali or semolina is nothing else but hard or durum wheat, the type of wheat used in bread flour, the type of flour necessary for making koulouria).
Koulouria were a popular street food in Thessaloniki and Constantinople both during the Byzantine and Ottoman periods. During the early part of the twentieth century, waves of Greek refugees from Constantinople and Asia Minor reintroduced the koulouri to the Greek mainland. A considerable number of refugees settled in and around the city of Thessaloniki which is located in northern Greece. Soon, koulouria made and sold by these refugees could be found all over the city, a reason these delicacies, no matter which city they can be found in, are known as "koulouria of Thessaloniki." Their popularity continues to this day.
Homemade koulouri, made smaller than the commercial variety. The smaller size is best for home ovens (photo by Sweet Almond Tree).
Here is a personal observation: Look at the picture of the koulouri at the top of this paragraph. Do you see the part where the dough has been linked to form a ring? It's clearly visible because it forms an indentation in the koulouri. That is the most delicious part to eat. Since it's been pressed down, it's crunchier, denser, and thinner. It has a taste all its own. As a kid, I used to save this "link" for last, and sometimes I would hide it in my pocket to eat as a special treat later in the day. Eating that little bite was a delight! In the playground, there were two types of kids: those who loved that link and those who didn't. The links were a commodity to be traded or used as ransom in our hide-and-seek games. Sometimes you could wind up with two or three in your pocket, and then you would be considered rich!
 |
| This mural, dating to the Byzantine era can be found in Thessaloniki. It shows three comrades selling koulouria outside a bakery! |
*The word kollyrio is the etymological root of the word “collyrium,” which is used in the field of ophthalmology. A collyrium was an ancient medicinal preparation: a piece of soft bread was soaked in a remedy and used as an eye compress. Today, a collyrium is a lotion or liquid wash used as a cleanser for the eyes, particularly in diseases of the eye.
I must mention that although this is a beloved and celebrated snack, the life of a koulouri vendor (he is referred to as a koulouras) is a difficult one. Selling anything on the street was and is very hard work. As recently as the mid 1950s, in the still war-impoverished Greece, it wasn't uncommon practice for children to be employed as vendors.
I'd like to share some photographs (from the Internet):
 |
A modern-day vendor at a festival concession. Today, koulouria are also sold in shops and are available in different varieties such as stuffed with cheeses, olives, vegetables, hams, or ... dear me. chocolates. Myself, I am a sworn purist! Forever! Give me the original version, please.
|
 |
| I can't decide if this is a customer or a vendor ... Sometimes, if the vendor has to step away, koulouria will be sold on the self-serve honour system. Take a koulouri and pay for it by dropping your coins into a small receptacle left on the tray. |
 |
Thessaloniki 1947
|
This photograph was not dated but I assume it was taken in the early 1940s. War, poverty, famine and misfortune nearly destroyed Greece during 1940 - 1950.
 |
A young vendor from Crete, 1900. Too young, but unfortunately, such was and is life.
Notice the traditional Cretan breeches, a style made popular during the 14th and 15th centuries when Cretan men worked on Venetian ships. Versions of these breeches remain part of the traditional Cretan costume.
|
Let's now discuss koulourakia (the word means small koulouria):
2. Koulourakia
Koulourakia are small, buttery, desert-type cookies. Historically, they were placed front and center on the buffet table during holidays and at times of celebration. Today they can be eaten at any time. Koulourakia can have various shapes such as twists, circles, serpentines, you name it. There is a shape meant to resemble a ship or boat, but in my opinion, the resemblance depends on an active imagination. Often, the shape is influenced by the region where the koulourakia are made and the preference or stamina of the person making them.
The basic recipe for koulourakia contains flour, sugar, butter, and aromatics. The texture is crumbly, crunchy but not hard, and the taste is buttery with hints of the flavourings used. There are several flavourings to choose from: orange, lemon, brandy, ouzo, vanilla, etc. Koulourakia are brushed with egg wash before baking, and it's traditional but not necessary to top each one with a few sesame seeds. When koulourakia contain spirits, they are called koulourakia methysmena, which means drunk koulourakia. In some regions of Greece, perhaps for religious or dietary reasons, spirits are not used for flavouring. Anise can be substituted, to give the hint of the ouzo taste. After all, ouzo, the famous and omnipresent Greek apéritif, is flavoured with anise.
You can find one of my recipes for koulourakia by clicking here. I should mention it was my mother's recipe, and the koulourakia pictured at the top of this post, the ones next to the coffee, were made by both of us: she made the dough, I shaped them. She used to say the recipe was the best one for koulourakia she had ever tried ... given to her by a dear girlfriend.
 |
| Koulourakia before going into the oven. |
Note: Some of the information on street food is based on personal observation. A certain amount, particularly that of the etymological origins of the word "koulouri," is taken from the book "Street Foods, World Review of Nutrition and Dietetics, Volume 86" edited by Artemis P. Simopoulos and Ramesh V. Bhat.
Scattered among my own photographs are some borrowed from "Parallaxi," a Greek online magazine.
